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Block Island: A Land of Treasures

  Corn Neck Road, Block Island, Rhode Island
  An Aerial View of Corn Neck Road 1

Commanding cliffs, deserted beaches and a windswept landscape comprise the first (and accurate) impression of Block Island. With nearly half of its land area under conservation, the island can be experienced today much as it was by its early inhabitants, for it is one of the “Last Great Places” in the Western Hemisphere as named by The Nature Conservancy. The ferry lands in the Old Harbor District, which appears in contrast to this ruggedness with a profusion of gingerbread-style buildings erected in the 19th century by Victorians determined to tame the island. But its first residents were far from prim and proper, and included the likes of notorious privateer, William Kidd. While visitors may not find part of his legendary treasure buried here, they will assuredly find a few gems of a different nature.

HISTORY & GEOGRAPHY

Block Island is part of the state of Rhode Island and is located 13 mi (21 km) off its coast in the Atlantic Ocean. Today, approximately 1,000 inhabitants occupy this 9.734 sq mi (25.2 sq km) pork-chop-shaped parcel of land. Hungry for discovering new territory, the first European to set his sights here was Giovanni da Verrazzano in 1524. But it wasn’t surveyed until 1614 by Dutch explorer Adrian Block who humbly named the land after himself. Of course Block Island had been named several centuries ago by the local Narragansett people as Manisses, meaning “island of the little God.”

Block Island was settled by Europeans in 1661 by 16 families from Boston who named their town New Shoreham. Situated on a popular trade route, many ships passed  in the night, the most notable of which belonged to infamous swashbuckler William Kidd. In 1699, Kidd visited the island on his way to stand trial in Boston for piracy. Legend says he buried part of his treasure here, so bring a metal detector. Kidd was later hanged in Boston in 1701. Block Island’s notorious past and rugged landscaped enchanted Victorians. It became a tourist hot spot in the 1850s, resulting in gingerbread-style buildings that remain to this day.

ACCOMMODATIONS

Don’t expect to stay at the Holiday Inn— there are no chain hotels here. The charm of Block Island is found in its grand, Victorian inns, situated on hilltops to maximize romantic sea views. The Spring House Hotel is the island’s oldest at over 150 years old and one of the most elegant having hosted Kennedy weddings and provided accommodation for the likes of Ulysses S. Grant and Mark Twain. Bed and breakfasts and vacation rentals offer more relaxed settings. Or try Champlin’s Resort located on Great Salt Pond with its own marina, restaurant, bars, movie theater, hotel and more.

Many accommodations are found near the Old Harbor District, within walking distance to the ferry, shops and restaurants. Choosing accommodation farther afield may require planning transportation, but it is essential for those yearning for peace and quiet. Be sure to check out WorldWeb.com’s accommodation map before booking.

With 10,000 tourists ascending on Block Island each summer, accommodation becomes limited and reservations should be made sometimes months in advance. Most hotels are closed for the winter.

CLIMATE

Many businesses on Block Island close during the off season, operating only to serve the tourist population from May to September. July and August see the most visitors and the holiday vibe is palpable. September and October are among the most beautiful months, especially for leaf-peepers who live to see the colors of autumn.

Bicylces for Rent, Old Harbor District, Block Island, Rhode Island
Bicycles for Rent at the Old Harbour 2  

Being by the water, ensure to bring sunglasses, sunscreen and a hat; however, the breeze off the ocean prevents things from getting too hot. Temperatures hover around 77°F (25°C) during July and August.

TRANSPORTATION

Surrounded by sea, Block Island is accessible by boat, ferry or airplane. The quickest option, New England Airlines can fly passengers from Westerly in just 12 minutes. There are three ferry services: the Block Island Ferry departs from Point Judith and takes about an hour; departing from nearby Galilee, the Island Hi-Speed Ferry travels via catamaran to Block Island in less than 30 minutes; and the Block Island Express is a high-speed ferry service that departs from downtown New London, Connecticut, traveling a fair distance in just over an hour.

The Block Island Ferry is the only way to bring over cars, but limited space means reservations must be made up to five months in advance to visit in the summer. Cars are not necessary, however, as most destinations are within walking distance and car, bike and moped rentals are readily available, as are taxis.

For those arriving by boat, there are marinas on Great Salt Pond in Block Island’s west. Reservations are recommended.

FEATURED ATTRACTIONS

  Southeast Lighthouse, Block Island, Rhode Island
  Southeast Lighthouse on Block Island 3

Historical Attractions
Settler’s Rock is simply a rock with a plaque commemorating European settlement of Block Island by 16 families in 1662 at the original landing place. The landmark is located on Cow Cove, this point is named after the unfortunate bovines that were pushed overboard and had to swim to shore as the ship could not get close enough to moor because of the rocky coastline. It is found at the island’s north end near Sandy Point and within the Block Island National Wildlife Refuge. A mile-long hike from here is the North Light House—one of only two lighthouses on the island, the other being the Southeast Lighthouse, which also houses the Lost Manissean Indian Exhibit.

The Old Harbor District forms Block Island’s downtown area and is the first point of entry when arriving by ferry, featuring Victorian inns, storefronts and a post office. Just off Water Street, look for the white, alabaster statue Rebecca, which was erected in 1896 by the Women's Christian Temperance Movement. A Greek-style model, she stands on a pillar draped in a sleeveless toga, holding a vessel. Ironically, it was later discovered she is a representation of the Greek goddess Hebe who served nectar and ambrosia to the gods and goddesses of Mount Olympus. Extending from downtown, follow Old Town Road to the Block Island Historical Society with its interesting collection housed within an 1850's farmhouse.

Beaches
Block Island boasts 17 mi (27 km) of beachfront with at least 10 easily accessible beaches. Fred Benson Town Beach (a.k.a. State Beach), is one of the most popular, with upgraded facilities, including a bathhouse, lifeguards, chair/umbrella/boogie board rentals, and concessions. For something a little more subdued, try Vail Beach with its rocky but very secluded coastline.

Natural Attractions
Over 40 percent of the island is protected from development, preserving places of untouched beauty, such as the domineering 150-ft (46-m) clay cliffs. Known as the Mohegan Bluffs, they are named for an aboriginal battle in 1590 where the Manisseans drove 40 Mohegans over the cliffs. Take the stairs down to enjoy the secluded beach below.

Mohegan Bluffs, Block Island, Rhode Island
Mohegan Bluffs on Block Island 4  

Block Island is in the migratory path of over 150 varieties of birds, making it a haven for bird watching. The best areas coincide with the island’s excellent trail system, such as Fresh Pond Greenway and Fresh Swamp Trail. The most notable natural area is Rodman’s Hollow located at the southern end of the island, encompassing 47 acres (19 ha), complete with trails, beaches and wild landscape.

Recreation
Aside from building sandcastles and wading in salty water, there are plenty of activities that make use of Block Island’s natural setting. Parasailing and surfing can be enjoyed beachside. Or explore area waters by chartering a sailboat. Fishing trips are popular with offshore fishing for tuna, marlin and shark. Hike island trails or explore them on horseback. For children, Champlin’s Resort has bumper boats that are open to the public as well as a movie theater. And don’t miss Justin’s Farm for its exotic array of animals.

Shopping, Restaurants & Nightlife
Devoid of chain restaurants and shops, an eclectic mix of businesses is found in the Old Harbor District. Antiques, bookstores, jewelry, local crafts and other curiosities abound. Golddiggers, the Glass Onion and Star Department Store are local favorites.

Seafood reigns supreme and it would be a disservice to not have a clam cake or lobster roll at restaurants such as Beachead and Finn’s. Several fine-dining restaurants are renowned, attracting day visitors via ferry who come just for a meal at the Atlantic Inn, the Spring House, Hotel Manisses and the National Tap & Grill. Local watering holes such as Captain Nick’s, Club Soda and McGovern’s Yellow Kittens become nightlife hot spots in summer months for those seeking a good time, not a long time.

 

If you enjoyed this feature, take a look at these great WorldWeb.com articles:
New England's Top 10 Beaches
Staying in Newport: America's Original Summer Resort


PHOTOS COURTESY OF:
  1. An Aerial View of Corn Neck Road; Block Island, Rhode Island, USA
  2. Bicyles for Rent at the Old Harbor, Block Island, Rhode Island, USA
  3. Southeast Lighthouse on Block Island, Rhode Island, USA
  4. Mohegan Bluffs on Block Island, Rhode Island, USA
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